Fieldfare facts:
Lifespan 5 years
Not on the endangered species list
Wingspan 40 cm
Migatory
| Kingdom: | Animalia |
| Phylum: | Chordata |
| Class: | Aves |
| Order: | Passeriformes |
| Family: | Turdidae |
| Genus: | Turdus |
Wednesday 30 November 2011
Fieldfare (Turdus pilaris)
Fieldfare facts:
Lifespan 5 years
Not on the endangered species list
Wingspan 40 cm
Migatory
On the Red List: Tree Sparrow (Passer montanus)
Widely distributed across England, Wales and the eastern side of Scotland, they are found on farmland, hedgerows and woodland edges. They have chestnut-brown crowns and backs, white cheeks and a black cheek-spot. Although the male and female look almost identical, they can be distinguished from the male House Sparrows by the brown cap and by presence of the black cheek-spot. Tree Sparrows don't associate with man.
They feed on weed seeds, corn and insects and although they can be found in the garden they are relatively shy birds and form less attachment to habitation. However, if you see them in your garden and wish to encourage them you could put up an enclosed nest box. It should have an entrance hole of one and one eighth inches in diameter and an inside depth of at least six inches and a floor around four inches square.
The Tree Sparrow have a lifespan of only around 2 years and usually produce two broods of four to six eggs which are smaller, browner and darker than those of the house sparrow. These birds have been placed on the Red List of endangered birds
The Tree Sparrow have a lifespan of only around 2 years and usually produce two broods of four to six eggs which are smaller, browner and darker than those of the house sparrow. These birds have been placed on the Red List of endangered birds
On the Red List: Yellowhammer (Emberiza citrinella)
They feed mainly on the ground so their diet is corn, weed seeds,spiders, worms and wild fruits. Interestingly, they appear to like blackberries which most birds won't touch. Occasionally they are to be found in the garden but as a general rule they could not be classified as a garden bird.
you find their nests in the bottom of hedgerows or bushes made of straw and grass and moss lined and lay up to six eggs and have two to three broods. However, there has been a severe decline in the yellowhammer population to such an extent that they have now been placed on the red list of endangered species.
Garden Bird Recipes: A Simple Basic Recipe
That's recipes for food for garden birds not recipes that call for garden birds as an ingredient!
The basic recipe
Put a mixture of seeds, peanuts, oatmeal, cake and scraps into a container and pour hot fat over the mixture until it's covered. Leave this to set then turn it out onto your bird table. Alternatively, prepare it in a yogurt pot or empty coconut shell and hand it out upside down when set. You should expect to use one pound of mixture to half a pound of fat.
The basic recipe
Put a mixture of seeds, peanuts, oatmeal, cake and scraps into a container and pour hot fat over the mixture until it's covered. Leave this to set then turn it out onto your bird table. Alternatively, prepare it in a yogurt pot or empty coconut shell and hand it out upside down when set. You should expect to use one pound of mixture to half a pound of fat.
Treating Casualties: Orphaned Birds
There's some great detailed advice on looking after wild birds and treating orphaned birds on the Wild Bird Center website
Treating Casualties: Orphaned Birds
Before doing anything, make sure the bird really does need your help. The young of some species leave the nest before they are able to fly and usually stay out of sight waiting to be fed. So be as sure as you can be that the bird is not being fed because every year lots of young birds are rescued before they have been lost.
If you do decide to foster the bird be prepared for very long hours and a tedious routine for which you are going to need lots of patience. If you can't commit to this then simply report it to one of the animal or bird welfare groups in your area. If you do take responsibility for a very young bird then you will also need a suitable place to keep it, which must be warm and draught free.
If you can't face swatting flies and killing smooth caterpillars then feed the bird finely minced raw meat from the end of a matchstick. You must never feed the bird live food and always kill insects before offering them. Feed them every hour and make sure the crop is full, which you can tell from a swelling at the base of the throat. It is difficult to overfeed a young bird but the most important thing is to feed it regularly. It doesn't need water so you shouldn't try to offer any.
Don't pick it up if at all possible and never try and make a pet of it because it will be independent of you within a month and your job is to give it the best possible chance of survival. Apart from feeding keep the nest warm and clear away droppings as quickly as possible.
There is other advice I could give about care as it gets older but bird care organizations would probably condemn me as irresponsible and remind me that it is illegal to keep a wild bird without a permit. So, I would advise that you you should look after the bird until one of these bird or animal rescue organizations are ready to collect it from you.
If you do decide to foster the bird be prepared for very long hours and a tedious routine for which you are going to need lots of patience. If you can't commit to this then simply report it to one of the animal or bird welfare groups in your area. If you do take responsibility for a very young bird then you will also need a suitable place to keep it, which must be warm and draught free.
If you can't face swatting flies and killing smooth caterpillars then feed the bird finely minced raw meat from the end of a matchstick. You must never feed the bird live food and always kill insects before offering them. Feed them every hour and make sure the crop is full, which you can tell from a swelling at the base of the throat. It is difficult to overfeed a young bird but the most important thing is to feed it regularly. It doesn't need water so you shouldn't try to offer any.
Don't pick it up if at all possible and never try and make a pet of it because it will be independent of you within a month and your job is to give it the best possible chance of survival. Apart from feeding keep the nest warm and clear away droppings as quickly as possible.
There is other advice I could give about care as it gets older but bird care organizations would probably condemn me as irresponsible and remind me that it is illegal to keep a wild bird without a permit. So, I would advise that you you should look after the bird until one of these bird or animal rescue organizations are ready to collect it from you.
Monday 14 November 2011
Nest Boxes
There are endless birdwatching secrets and tips to encourage birds into your garden but here we look at the important points to consider if you are thinking of providing nest boxes for your garden birds.
There are two basic types of nest box. The first is an enclosed space with a small entrance hole and the second type is a tray or ledge with a roof. Whichever you decide on, it is important that the box does not warp which will expose the nestlings to wind and rain. To make sure that doesn't happen, the box should ideally be made from three-quarter inch hardwood which is a better option than softwood as it is more resistant to the weather. Three-quarter inch hardwood should also be thick enough to insulate the interior temperature from extremes of heat and cold.
It is a sad reality that rain kills many nestlings in natural nesting sites, so it's important the nest box excludes rain as far as possible when we invite birds to use them. Whether you buy a ready to use box or build your own, always check that the roof fits flush to the walls. To make sure it is as watertight as possible, seal the wall joints with a sealing compound before you nail or screw the box into place. Use a wood preservative on the outside of the box if you wish but never on the inside. The entrance hole in the enclosed boxes must be at least five inches from the base to prevent cats from fishing for young bird and to stop other predators seeing them as they stretch up for food.
Another good tip is to make sure there is no peg that acts as a perch under the entrance hole. These pegs are not necessary and in reality all they do is give an extra foothold for predators to use. If you want to discourage certain types of birds such as starlings, a one and one-eighth inches (3cm) diameter entrance hole is required. Equally important are the inside floor measurements which should give the young birds room to stretch their wings and a small drainage hole in the floor.
Many nesting boxes are sold at the start of the New Year but one last tip is they should ideally be fixed into place in October or November. This lets them weather into their surroundings and gives time for the gan birds to get used to the boxes and accept them as part of their environment. In this way you will dramatically increase the chances of occupancy.
There are two basic types of nest box. The first is an enclosed space with a small entrance hole and the second type is a tray or ledge with a roof. Whichever you decide on, it is important that the box does not warp which will expose the nestlings to wind and rain. To make sure that doesn't happen, the box should ideally be made from three-quarter inch hardwood which is a better option than softwood as it is more resistant to the weather. Three-quarter inch hardwood should also be thick enough to insulate the interior temperature from extremes of heat and cold.
It is a sad reality that rain kills many nestlings in natural nesting sites, so it's important the nest box excludes rain as far as possible when we invite birds to use them. Whether you buy a ready to use box or build your own, always check that the roof fits flush to the walls. To make sure it is as watertight as possible, seal the wall joints with a sealing compound before you nail or screw the box into place. Use a wood preservative on the outside of the box if you wish but never on the inside. The entrance hole in the enclosed boxes must be at least five inches from the base to prevent cats from fishing for young bird and to stop other predators seeing them as they stretch up for food.
Another good tip is to make sure there is no peg that acts as a perch under the entrance hole. These pegs are not necessary and in reality all they do is give an extra foothold for predators to use. If you want to discourage certain types of birds such as starlings, a one and one-eighth inches (3cm) diameter entrance hole is required. Equally important are the inside floor measurements which should give the young birds room to stretch their wings and a small drainage hole in the floor.
Many nesting boxes are sold at the start of the New Year but one last tip is they should ideally be fixed into place in October or November. This lets them weather into their surroundings and gives time for the gan birds to get used to the boxes and accept them as part of their environment. In this way you will dramatically increase the chances of occupancy.
How to Get Birds to Use Your Nest Box
People often ask if a nest box in the garden is of any use because so few appear to be used. The answer to that is an unreserved yes. With so many natural habitats and nesting sites under threat, cavity nesting birds find there is ever greater competition for nest holes. This is one reason it is so important that everything possible is done to encourage birds into gardens and yards. As many species now rely on sheds, walls and other structures as alternative nesting sites, a custom-built nest box is a welcome addition if it is correctly positioned, safe to use and close to a regular supply of food and water.
Ideally, a new nest box will be in place before winter sets in, which allows time for birds to become accustomed to the new addition and by offering winter shelter you increase the chances of these birds staying and nesting in the spring. However, a far more important factor is the position to make sure it provides a comfortable environment, safe from predators and the worst of the weather.
In reality, this is more of a compromise and needs careful thought. Height is not the main consideration and a box placed at around the six-foot level will be fine. The position must be protected from prevailing cold winds and birds will usually not use nest boxes that face south because of exposure to sun from dawn to dusk. A good place would be anywhere from north to south-east with a clear flight path and not too heavily sheltered or darkened by foliage. They should be secured to prevent movement but preferably not nailed in place, allowing them to be removed at a later date.
Most people will only consider one or two nest boxes, but if you want to place a larger number around your garden, remember that many birds are territorial, so placing them close together will create problems. It is also worth considering that the number of birds a garden will support is limited by the insect population in the immediate vicinity. Whether the nest box has been used or not during the year, you can encourage its use over the winter and the following summer by cleaning it inside. This is ideally done during October or early November. Assuming the nest box has not been permanently nailed into place, it should be taken down and any nesting material removed. Under no circumstances use any cleaning products on the inside, instead, lift the lid or remove a side panel and pour in boiling water before returning it to its usual place. Finally, when considering all the above, do try to position the nest box where you can see it.
Ideally, a new nest box will be in place before winter sets in, which allows time for birds to become accustomed to the new addition and by offering winter shelter you increase the chances of these birds staying and nesting in the spring. However, a far more important factor is the position to make sure it provides a comfortable environment, safe from predators and the worst of the weather.
In reality, this is more of a compromise and needs careful thought. Height is not the main consideration and a box placed at around the six-foot level will be fine. The position must be protected from prevailing cold winds and birds will usually not use nest boxes that face south because of exposure to sun from dawn to dusk. A good place would be anywhere from north to south-east with a clear flight path and not too heavily sheltered or darkened by foliage. They should be secured to prevent movement but preferably not nailed in place, allowing them to be removed at a later date.
Most people will only consider one or two nest boxes, but if you want to place a larger number around your garden, remember that many birds are territorial, so placing them close together will create problems. It is also worth considering that the number of birds a garden will support is limited by the insect population in the immediate vicinity. Whether the nest box has been used or not during the year, you can encourage its use over the winter and the following summer by cleaning it inside. This is ideally done during October or early November. Assuming the nest box has not been permanently nailed into place, it should be taken down and any nesting material removed. Under no circumstances use any cleaning products on the inside, instead, lift the lid or remove a side panel and pour in boiling water before returning it to its usual place. Finally, when considering all the above, do try to position the nest box where you can see it.
Encouraging Birds to Your Garden
It is relatively easy to encourage birds to any garden as long as it provides the three essentials of food, shelter and water. The most important rule is to make sure food is available throughout the year and not just in the winter. Nuts, seed mixtures and fat balls are all welcome but do make sure any feeders and bird tables are cleaned regularly to prevent the spread of viral diseases. Avoid chemical cleaners and instead use using boiling water. Equally important is to provide the right ecologically friendly environment to encourage insect food. Cutting back or eliminating chemicals and pesticides used in the garden will help and birds and other predators will make sure there will be very few problems with pests.
Although an open, well-maintained lawn will give a clear view and offer a perfect hunting area for birds but flower beds, neat borders and an over tidy garden do not offer much of interest. A bird friendly garden should ideally include plants that offer a good source of food and if you allow the seed heads to stay on plants, it offers an alternative source of food for birds in winter. Cut back these seed heads in early March as new shoots are emerging. Most trees and shrubs attract and support insects and shrubs that produce berries will give food in the colder months, although it is worth noting that many yellow berries remain uneaten and it is probably best to concentrate on plants producing red or black berries.
The best bird garden boundary is a hedge left untrimmed in the summer. An untrimmed hedgerow offers a variety of benefits. Hawthorn or hazel are ideal but almost all hedges will offer a good habitat for birds to shelter, nest and feed. Aside from any berries the hedge produces, dead leaves and debris shelter spiders, woodlice and centipedes and in the hedge itself, leaves stay attached to offer warmth and cover in the colder months. A word of warning. It is best to avoid thick leaved evergreens such as laurels and rhododendrons because they take too much light from the ground and there are too few insects underneath.
Finally, a few notes on providing water. All birds need water and get some through the food they eat. They don't sweat but lose water mainly through excretion and they need to replace this. Many garden birds also need water to take care of their plumage which, apart from its obvious use in flight, provides insulation and regulates body temperature. The battle to maintain plumage is a constant one and bathing is an important element in their attempt to keep their feathers fully efficient. Most birds prefer shallow water for bathing, placed in the shade with a reasonable amount of cover.
Follow these tips and you will encourage birds to your garden all year-round.
Although an open, well-maintained lawn will give a clear view and offer a perfect hunting area for birds but flower beds, neat borders and an over tidy garden do not offer much of interest. A bird friendly garden should ideally include plants that offer a good source of food and if you allow the seed heads to stay on plants, it offers an alternative source of food for birds in winter. Cut back these seed heads in early March as new shoots are emerging. Most trees and shrubs attract and support insects and shrubs that produce berries will give food in the colder months, although it is worth noting that many yellow berries remain uneaten and it is probably best to concentrate on plants producing red or black berries.
The best bird garden boundary is a hedge left untrimmed in the summer. An untrimmed hedgerow offers a variety of benefits. Hawthorn or hazel are ideal but almost all hedges will offer a good habitat for birds to shelter, nest and feed. Aside from any berries the hedge produces, dead leaves and debris shelter spiders, woodlice and centipedes and in the hedge itself, leaves stay attached to offer warmth and cover in the colder months. A word of warning. It is best to avoid thick leaved evergreens such as laurels and rhododendrons because they take too much light from the ground and there are too few insects underneath.
Finally, a few notes on providing water. All birds need water and get some through the food they eat. They don't sweat but lose water mainly through excretion and they need to replace this. Many garden birds also need water to take care of their plumage which, apart from its obvious use in flight, provides insulation and regulates body temperature. The battle to maintain plumage is a constant one and bathing is an important element in their attempt to keep their feathers fully efficient. Most birds prefer shallow water for bathing, placed in the shade with a reasonable amount of cover.
Follow these tips and you will encourage birds to your garden all year-round.
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